The ferry ride across Prince William Sound from Valdez to Whittier is almost three hours on the "fast" ferry. This ferry only runs two times a week. The "slow" ferry is about five hours for the same route. Each ferry is capable of carrying vehicles and passengers. The tour company must make its reservations a year in advance in order to insure a space for the van, bikes and trailer.
Valdez was a very bustling place. I would presume, though, much quieter in the winter time. We learned, though, that the passage remains open year round, which is why Exxon has an oil storage facility there.
We boarded the ferry at 11:15 and departed Valdez an hour later with a partial load of passengers and vehicles. It was a beautiful day (a day I would have gladly exchanged for one of the rainy days on the bike).
En route to Whittier we did see whales come to the surface from time to time, as well as, sea otters and porpoises. It seemed all the passengers were in a scavenger hunt to see who would locate the most unique find. The animals were only giving playful glimpses, but it made the trip pass quickly. There were also pieces of glacier floating in the passage along the way, and we saw sea kayakers as we neared Whittier.
Whittier is a small, active town of approximately three hundred residents. Approximately 90% of all businesses, services and residents are located in one multi-story building in the town. Families are actively recruited to the city in order for it to receive funding for its school. The minimum enrollment for funding is ten students.
Whittier was significant to U.S. efforts in World War II as a strategic location for the US military. There was a railway built through one of the mountains during that time to allow easier transport of military personnel and equipment in and out of the area. The railway is still active today, but the three mile, one-way tunnel leading in and out of Whittier is shared by motor vehicles and trains. There are traffic lights for traffic control of vehicles. Presumably an approaching train would take priority over everything else. Going through the tunnel to leave Whittier was another new experience. Think claustrophobia.
After passing through the tunnel, we made one last ice cream stop and a few last photos before returning to Anchorage. Ironically on the return trip, we passed through another rain storm. As I look back at the tour company web site, maybe I should have paid more attention to all the photos showing riding tights, arm warmers and rain gear?!
All in all, it was a great trip. The scenery was great. My photos don't do it justice. The tour company owners / ride leaders know the area, are well organized and are a wealth of information about their state. There were few questions Walt or Debbie could not answer.
Different from other trips I've done, though, this was a destination trip. There were portages by van to specific locations for riding. The absence of queue sheets was at first disturbing, but I quickly realized this meant riding from mile marker to mile marker and no turns. No way to get lost! Of course, the lack of any intersecting roads might have something to do with it too!
The isolation of Alaska also made it less likely to meet and greet with the locals. The area folks that I did speak with were helpful and friendly, but they really were few and far between. Partially because Walt and Deb took care of all the details so that it wasn't necessary to try to find a gas station, convenience store or grocery to supplement food.
Some of you have asked if I would do it again. I would absolutely go to Alaska again, and now know the areas I would prefer to return to, just like the outcome of any other bike ride. If I were to ride in Alaska again, I would be able to train more appropriately, and would likely take my own bike to be better adept at the climbing that is involved. We flatlanders need all the help we can get.
It turned out to be fortunate that Dale and I could not coordinate schedules to meet in Anchorage after the trip. Our plan had been to rent a motorcycle and spend a few more days touring in the area. Many motorcyclists were in insulated Carharts, which would have never occurred to us.
This photo was graciously provided by Steve Kopp, a rider from Fayetteville, Arkansas. It is from the hill at the top of Thompson Pass on the last riding day (last Saturday).
Thanks for riding along!
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