Woke to rain in Glenallen. Today we cross Thompson Pass. Could it be a repeat of yesterday and snowing at the Pass?
Glenallen is much warmer than Tangle River, which was above the tree line, but crossing the pass may be the challenge of the day. It looks like cold weather clothes will be in order again today.
Breakfast was a bit more of a challenge today than in previous days. It's Saturday, more tourists and business than what we've seen all week. The biggest problem was salty oatmeal for seven of us...such a tragedy!
It didn't take too long to ride out of the rain. The road sign says Thompson Pass is open. Maybe things are looking up.
Plenty of climbing in today's ride. By the time we got to the lunch stop, the clouds were breaking up. We had great views of Worthington Glacier until reaching the pass. The Glacier was pretty awesome. It would have been great to have been able to go into the state park there and hike closer to the ice. From where we were you could see the massiveness of the ice and the various tones of white and blue.
Some riders stopped at a turnout to take photos of the Glacier. A pickup from Iowa also stopped. We learned the family had driven from Red Oak and that, according to their bumper sticker, they "Stop for Pie." There have not been many out of state vehicles here, so this one really stood out. It makes sense given the distance to get here, but is something very different from other trips I've been on when the in state and out of state ratio is much more distributed. The population of RV's is really overwhelming. Perhaps Winnebago should look to move manufacturing to Alaska for easier distribution.
The areas we've been in have been tourism-centric, and residents are very much in tune to the economic need of their communities. It's been interesting to see so many small business owners who are running true family businesses. The children, regardless of age, are working side by side with parents and siblings for the business.
We arrived in Valdez and went down to the dock area for supper last night. How fascinating to see the boats coming in with the catch of the day and watch the operations, either transporting fish by wheel barrow to be packed for shipment or to be cleaned. Children working with their parents even in that business. While we watched, the sea gulls and bald eagles flew overhead waiting for their opportunity for supper too.
Thompson Pass is at 2,700 feet. It seemed during the climb that it would have been much higher but the payoff would be well worth it. Once there, we hiked to the crest of the hill just off the road, and were treated to the most magnificent view of Alaska yet with mountains and glaciers surrounding us on all sides.
In various places during the trip there are metal posts along the road that go up overhead with reflectors on the cross bars. This was the case up to and at the pass. We learned that these are for snow removal purposes so that plow drivers know where the edge of the road is. Very interesting to compare to the 3 or 4 foot metal posts that you see in Iowa for the same purpose. Thompson Pass receives approximately 400 inches of snow in the winter. I guess that's why there's a sign for the status of the pass, and eventually cross bars for road closures. I can't imagine that much snow and that the road would actually be open.
From the pass it was a 13 mile downhill. The first six was one of those steep, screamers. I'm certainly glad I had had the experience before. While it wasn't a technical descent, it can be pretty unnerving to have that much speed, have to deal with cross winds and not know the road. Everyone managed it well.
On the way down, we went through Keystone canyon and passed several whitewater rafting businesses. There were waterfalls in the canyon along the way. The canyon walls were almost too tall to see the tops.
We're in Valdez. We've learned there have only been four significant events in the city's history -- the gold rush, an earthquake and following tidal wave, the pipeline and the oil spill. It is an interesting, bustling place.
I haven't been in many places with a marked Tsunami Evacuation Route. In 1964, there was an earthquake and landslide offshore from the city, which sits on Prince William Sound. There were 30 people killed in the tidal wave that followed, most who were on the docks unloading boats when all the water left the harbor and the tidal wave returned. The whole city was moved inland from its original location and seems to be a significant part of the city's history and existence.
We cross Prince William Sound by ferry tomorrow. We'll get off the ferry in Whittier then transport back to Anchorage for the end of the trip.
It turned out to be another great riding day with some sun and lots more spectactular scenery. The trip will be complete if we happen to catch some glimpses of whales on the way to Whittier. I'm going to need to find more film before we get on the ferry.
~ Lisa
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Flashbacks
We got up to rain this morning. Well, at least it's rain. But, it's still really cold.
At mile 13 back down the Denali Highway, we picked up snow. The Highway has plenty of climbing and plenty of descents. It was a cautious trip back to Paxson to get back on the Alaska Highway and head to Glenallen. While the road wasn't slick, the snow would pelt you in the face on a downhill. It was difficult to see where you were going. Everyone was actually in climbing mode just to stay warm.
The only things I haven't worn yet are three pairs of shorts, and what was I thinking bringing a swimming suit? Today there were four layers to try to stay dry and warm. Glove liners under bike gloves. Wool socks and bike socks with plastic bags on the outside (inside of shoes) to try to keep the feet dry. Capri bike pants with leg warmers on top. It, generally, paid off this time until we stopped for lunch at 30 miles (probably about two hours). Once you stop, it is really tough to stay warm. For me, it's almost better to keep moving which is my normal strategy. The tour, though, prefers to try to keep the group closer together since they are supporting with two staff members and one van.
At 2:30 they pulled everyone off the road. It was still raining and 38 degrees and felt it too dangerous.
I take back the tone of sarcasm from an earlier post regarding the heat at the Caribou Inn. We were all very grateful to have the heat on when we arrived yesterday. I immediately crawled in the shower with the water as hot as I could take it. Now it would be important to get everything dried out in case it would be needed again tomorrow.
We were actually able to have an early supper tonight because of the early arrival at the hotel. We ate at a fishing camp outside of Glenallen which also has a restaurant. The property is owned and run by a family. The children all work at the restaurant and did a great job managing our group and another, larger group who were also dining there. The restaurant is a log cabin built in the early 1900's. The food and service was great.
Nighttime is a little strange since it never really gets dark as we are used to. I was up at 3 and it looked like it was about 8 or 9 p.m. for us. Most of the hotels have had something to darken the room. There have been some exceptions, but it really hasn't been a problem. I still struggle most with the time difference.
It's interesting to see how businesses and government use the daylight. When we returned from supper at 10:00 one evening earlier in the week, we came upon road crews painting highway lines. It appears "normal business hours" at this time of year is literally 24 x 7. I'm not sure what "normal" is during the winter. Some of the restaurants and hotels we have used are only open May - September, but others are open year round. Again, a very hardy bunch.
This has been more difficult than what I expected based on the information that was provided. My legs are really tired. I'm not sure if it's the bike or the climbing. One of the other riders tried to explain to me the other day while we were riding that the atmospheric pressure here is different and makes climbing more difficult. I guess that could work for me too! In reality, I probably wasn't as prepared as I should have been.
I'm scheduled to be back in Iowa Monday morning, flying out of Anchorage Sunday night at 9:30. The first order of business will be laundry. I'm thinking I better take a survival kit with me on the first trip to the basement for laundry, in case I can't make it back up the stairs until Dale gets home!
This was the toughest day so far. I've ridden in snow, rain and cold before but not the steady, wide-spread conditions that occurred today. But, again I learned, it's important to keep moving.
Tomorrow is the last riding day. Sunday we ferry from Valdez to Whittier then transfer to Anchorage. Dale says it's still hot, hot, hot in the Midwest. It'll be a big change from what we've seen here.
~Lisa
At mile 13 back down the Denali Highway, we picked up snow. The Highway has plenty of climbing and plenty of descents. It was a cautious trip back to Paxson to get back on the Alaska Highway and head to Glenallen. While the road wasn't slick, the snow would pelt you in the face on a downhill. It was difficult to see where you were going. Everyone was actually in climbing mode just to stay warm.
The only things I haven't worn yet are three pairs of shorts, and what was I thinking bringing a swimming suit? Today there were four layers to try to stay dry and warm. Glove liners under bike gloves. Wool socks and bike socks with plastic bags on the outside (inside of shoes) to try to keep the feet dry. Capri bike pants with leg warmers on top. It, generally, paid off this time until we stopped for lunch at 30 miles (probably about two hours). Once you stop, it is really tough to stay warm. For me, it's almost better to keep moving which is my normal strategy. The tour, though, prefers to try to keep the group closer together since they are supporting with two staff members and one van.
At 2:30 they pulled everyone off the road. It was still raining and 38 degrees and felt it too dangerous.
I take back the tone of sarcasm from an earlier post regarding the heat at the Caribou Inn. We were all very grateful to have the heat on when we arrived yesterday. I immediately crawled in the shower with the water as hot as I could take it. Now it would be important to get everything dried out in case it would be needed again tomorrow.
We were actually able to have an early supper tonight because of the early arrival at the hotel. We ate at a fishing camp outside of Glenallen which also has a restaurant. The property is owned and run by a family. The children all work at the restaurant and did a great job managing our group and another, larger group who were also dining there. The restaurant is a log cabin built in the early 1900's. The food and service was great.
Nighttime is a little strange since it never really gets dark as we are used to. I was up at 3 and it looked like it was about 8 or 9 p.m. for us. Most of the hotels have had something to darken the room. There have been some exceptions, but it really hasn't been a problem. I still struggle most with the time difference.
It's interesting to see how businesses and government use the daylight. When we returned from supper at 10:00 one evening earlier in the week, we came upon road crews painting highway lines. It appears "normal business hours" at this time of year is literally 24 x 7. I'm not sure what "normal" is during the winter. Some of the restaurants and hotels we have used are only open May - September, but others are open year round. Again, a very hardy bunch.
This has been more difficult than what I expected based on the information that was provided. My legs are really tired. I'm not sure if it's the bike or the climbing. One of the other riders tried to explain to me the other day while we were riding that the atmospheric pressure here is different and makes climbing more difficult. I guess that could work for me too! In reality, I probably wasn't as prepared as I should have been.
I'm scheduled to be back in Iowa Monday morning, flying out of Anchorage Sunday night at 9:30. The first order of business will be laundry. I'm thinking I better take a survival kit with me on the first trip to the basement for laundry, in case I can't make it back up the stairs until Dale gets home!
This was the toughest day so far. I've ridden in snow, rain and cold before but not the steady, wide-spread conditions that occurred today. But, again I learned, it's important to keep moving.
Tomorrow is the last riding day. Sunday we ferry from Valdez to Whittier then transfer to Anchorage. Dale says it's still hot, hot, hot in the Midwest. It'll be a big change from what we've seen here.
~Lisa
Catching Up -- Destination Tangle River
I haven't been able to connect the last two nights. It is Saturday (I think) and we have arrived in Valdez. I'll make three separate posts to catch up. So, I apologize to those of you who receive e-mail's of the posts because you're going to get rapid fire e-mail tonight but there's too much to put into one entry.
We left the Alaska 7 to head into Delta Junction for a great, well organized breakfast; and immediately ran upon two moose, a bull and a cow. They seemed very intimidated by the traffic. The ride leaders indicate this is usually because they are young. You could not have proven it by me. The bull looked huge! Fortunately, all traffic was very cautious and the moose were able to safely crossed the road in front of us.
After breakfast, we were off on a great day of cycling into Tangle River first on the Alaska Highway then the Denali Highway the last 20 miles. Tangle River turns out to be as close to the end of the earth as I think I've ever been.
I think I got some great photos on this day, and it started almost immediately with a great view of Mount Hess. Quite honestly, I don't think we lost sight of the mountains all day, whether they were snow covered, brush covered or just stone.
The first sag was at the Pipeline Crossover. This is a wide spot in the road where the Alaska Pipeline crosses under the highway. There was a wealth of information there regarding the pipeline and how it was built. As I understand it the pipeline is consistently full. There were 13 pumping stations built, but currently only 4 are in operation. What happened to that foreign oil independence thing? I vaguely remember this endeavor being very controversial in 1972, and most that you speak to remember the same thing.
We rode much of the day along or within view of the pipeline, and what I found extremely interesting is how accessible the pipeline is. At any given time, you could just walk right up to it if you chose to. Not sure what they do about security, but it would seem this would be somewhat of a risk. Interesting nonetheless to see how some of our fuel originates.
Everywhere you look you see wildflowers. The ditches, tundra and forests can just be thick with various varieties of flowers. Debbie, one of the ride leaders, is a second grade teacher in Anchorage and consistently puts her "second grade art skills" to work. She provided everyone handmade greeting cards with pressed Alaskan wildflowers that were beautiful.
Along with the morning's standard moose sighting, we had an interesting event on the road today. We came upon a single seat airplane sitting along side the road; engine running, pilot inside. It was on a downhill for me. I'm really not sure where he had come from as there was forest all around. Traffic was clear after I went by, and soon I could hear the engine speed up. I stopped and turned around. Sure enough, he was using the road as a runway for a take off (fortunately going uphill from me, but surely came close to buzzing two other riders who were not too far behind me). I did manage to get photos.
The lunch stop was along a river with rapids, as well as the next stop. It was a beautiful day. We followed the Delta River for a good portion of the day. I stopped to walk down to the water. Surprisingly, it wasn't nearly as cold as I expected. Although I'm not sure I would feel it was warm enough to raft as many do.
The crossing of Isabell Pass was pretty uneventful. Had we not known the mile marker, you wouldn't have known you had crossed it. There was a historic marker there, but I didn't stop because at about that time there were sprinkles and I did not want a repeat of yesterday.
Shortly after crossing the Pass, you come upon Summit Lake. This is a large lake dotted with small winter cabins, which seemed odd to me. This evidentally is a more popular winter location than summer. A large week-long snowmobiling event is held each winter that draws approximately 10,000 snowmobiles.
The last stop of the day was at Paxson where we picked up the Denali Highway to Tangle River. The area is so remote that Paxson receives mail twice a week (Tuesday and Thursday). It was a big day when we rode through -- mail and bike tour all on the same day.
There was a little boy who rode up on his bike while we were there, very curious as to what we were doing. He had his stuffed toy turtle "Steve" mounted to his handle bars. He wanted to know when we would be back? Told you it was big doings in Paxson on Thursday!
The Denali Highway is 135 miles of paved and unpaved road to Mount McKinley. It is not maintained in the winter time, so is not passable. And, is barely passable in the summer as it is generally, one continuous frost heave. Very difficult for biking. The area temperatures drop to 60 below in the winter, which could explain alot.
The Tangle River Inn is at mile 20 on the Highway. It was an especially interesting place. Very nice, very homey and very secluded. This was the stop advertised as no phone service, but had no television either. It was a very odd feeling being so remote and no access to any outside services.
It was incredibly cold when we arrived and the heat was on in the cabin, so you knew we were gaining altitude, and we should have known it was a sign of things to come.
This area is a popular destination for fishermen and hikers. The lodge had a restaurant where we had supper and breakfast the next morning. Halibut was on the menu for supper, and was very good!
The restaurant had an incredible view of the river with mountains as a backdrop. At one point, someone thought there was a bear at the river but upon further review by the group it was determined to be a really big dog. You get a little punchy after being on the road awhile.
First of all to correct myself as I predicted I would need to, we climbed Isabell Pass on Thursday. Thompson Pass comes later.
After steady rain on Wednesday, we got up to fabulous sunshine on Thursday and had magnificent scenery all day. It was absolutely the best!
We left the Alaska 7 to head into Delta Junction for a great, well organized breakfast; and immediately ran upon two moose, a bull and a cow. They seemed very intimidated by the traffic. The ride leaders indicate this is usually because they are young. You could not have proven it by me. The bull looked huge! Fortunately, all traffic was very cautious and the moose were able to safely crossed the road in front of us.
After breakfast, we were off on a great day of cycling into Tangle River first on the Alaska Highway then the Denali Highway the last 20 miles. Tangle River turns out to be as close to the end of the earth as I think I've ever been.
I think I got some great photos on this day, and it started almost immediately with a great view of Mount Hess. Quite honestly, I don't think we lost sight of the mountains all day, whether they were snow covered, brush covered or just stone.
The first sag was at the Pipeline Crossover. This is a wide spot in the road where the Alaska Pipeline crosses under the highway. There was a wealth of information there regarding the pipeline and how it was built. As I understand it the pipeline is consistently full. There were 13 pumping stations built, but currently only 4 are in operation. What happened to that foreign oil independence thing? I vaguely remember this endeavor being very controversial in 1972, and most that you speak to remember the same thing.
We rode much of the day along or within view of the pipeline, and what I found extremely interesting is how accessible the pipeline is. At any given time, you could just walk right up to it if you chose to. Not sure what they do about security, but it would seem this would be somewhat of a risk. Interesting nonetheless to see how some of our fuel originates.
Everywhere you look you see wildflowers. The ditches, tundra and forests can just be thick with various varieties of flowers. Debbie, one of the ride leaders, is a second grade teacher in Anchorage and consistently puts her "second grade art skills" to work. She provided everyone handmade greeting cards with pressed Alaskan wildflowers that were beautiful.
Along with the morning's standard moose sighting, we had an interesting event on the road today. We came upon a single seat airplane sitting along side the road; engine running, pilot inside. It was on a downhill for me. I'm really not sure where he had come from as there was forest all around. Traffic was clear after I went by, and soon I could hear the engine speed up. I stopped and turned around. Sure enough, he was using the road as a runway for a take off (fortunately going uphill from me, but surely came close to buzzing two other riders who were not too far behind me). I did manage to get photos.
The lunch stop was along a river with rapids, as well as the next stop. It was a beautiful day. We followed the Delta River for a good portion of the day. I stopped to walk down to the water. Surprisingly, it wasn't nearly as cold as I expected. Although I'm not sure I would feel it was warm enough to raft as many do.
The crossing of Isabell Pass was pretty uneventful. Had we not known the mile marker, you wouldn't have known you had crossed it. There was a historic marker there, but I didn't stop because at about that time there were sprinkles and I did not want a repeat of yesterday.
Shortly after crossing the Pass, you come upon Summit Lake. This is a large lake dotted with small winter cabins, which seemed odd to me. This evidentally is a more popular winter location than summer. A large week-long snowmobiling event is held each winter that draws approximately 10,000 snowmobiles.
The last stop of the day was at Paxson where we picked up the Denali Highway to Tangle River. The area is so remote that Paxson receives mail twice a week (Tuesday and Thursday). It was a big day when we rode through -- mail and bike tour all on the same day.
There was a little boy who rode up on his bike while we were there, very curious as to what we were doing. He had his stuffed toy turtle "Steve" mounted to his handle bars. He wanted to know when we would be back? Told you it was big doings in Paxson on Thursday!
The Denali Highway is 135 miles of paved and unpaved road to Mount McKinley. It is not maintained in the winter time, so is not passable. And, is barely passable in the summer as it is generally, one continuous frost heave. Very difficult for biking. The area temperatures drop to 60 below in the winter, which could explain alot.
The Tangle River Inn is at mile 20 on the Highway. It was an especially interesting place. Very nice, very homey and very secluded. This was the stop advertised as no phone service, but had no television either. It was a very odd feeling being so remote and no access to any outside services.
It was incredibly cold when we arrived and the heat was on in the cabin, so you knew we were gaining altitude, and we should have known it was a sign of things to come.
This area is a popular destination for fishermen and hikers. The lodge had a restaurant where we had supper and breakfast the next morning. Halibut was on the menu for supper, and was very good!
The restaurant had an incredible view of the river with mountains as a backdrop. At one point, someone thought there was a bear at the river but upon further review by the group it was determined to be a really big dog. You get a little punchy after being on the road awhile.
There was also a camp of geoligists there. There were studying nickel. They had a small camp of, what we know as, small hoop buildings. This is their third summer there. They travel by helicopter to the various drill sites that they have, and caused quite a stir earlier in the week when they accidentally began drilling on federal land instead of the leased land they had procured. Their living conditions appeared pretty rustic.
There was also a camp of pipeline works there, in even more primitive accommodations. These are truly independent, hardy folks that live out here. But, the beauty of the surroundings probably explains their motivation.
This was probably the best day so far.
Tomorrow it's back to Glenallen and the Caribou Inn.
~ Lisa
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Fairbanks to Delta Junction With an Air Force Escort
It was raining when we got to Fairbanks yesterday, and raining when we left. A fairly miserable day on the bike to start. I've, once again, learned alot about cycling on this trip. The weather conditions here are so incredibly variable. You must, literally, be prepared for everything.
It was raining and 40 degrees when we left the hotel this morning, and continued to rain for the first 50. Even after that there were showers, but not the steady, persistent preciptation of earlier. When we pulled into the motel tonight (Alaska 7 Motel), the sun was shining. According to the ride leaders (native Alaskans) the mountains create their own weather. It's no wonder you can't watch a weather forecast and understand what's going to happen.
On the bike, it means carrying everything. I was soaked by the time we got to lunch, and by that time my hands were numb. I learned that I should have brought my booties, even if they don't keep your feet dry. At least they would be warm. I learned that I should have put on my glove liners, for the same reason as the booties. And I learned that an extra pair of dry shorts and socks in the van would have been really useful. Oh well.
There's an Air Force base in Fairbanks. According to the local news, there are military training operations in progress this week involving all branches of the military. Only those that are or have been in the military probably understand what that really means, but seems to be very newsworthy and pretty awesome to those not from a military background. It was quite an impressive sight as we pulled into town yesterday to see the B-52's and F-15 fighters all sitting on the tarmack. Even more impressive was being able to see one of the B-52's take off as we went by. Wow!
Interestingly enough as we rode out today, there were no fighters nor B-52's at the base. The Alaska highway runs right along the base for many miles. The B-52's started coming in over our heads to land as we rode and you could here the fighters above all day. Gives you some perspective how small you really are.
We're in Delta Junction tonight. The ride leader told us during orientation that this motel would be the low point of the ride. The bar was set pretty low. But, here I am connected to free wireless internet, something I could not do in Anchorage. We had hot water, and the rooms are clean. It appears that there is only one room that isn't being used by the tour. Just a small local mom and pop place, that typically doesn't survive in our area.
We saw several moose today, and the Alaskan pipeline. No additional bear sightings.
The day lived up to the hype and was compounded by rain. We're off toward Denali tomorrow. We will be crossing two passes (Isabell and Thompson I think. I may have to corrrect myself on the next post), so I expect more climbing. Have I mentioned that I really miss my bike? The bikes provided by the tour are Cannondales and are well equipped for the Alaska roads. I underestimated, though, what it would mean to go from a lightweight carbon fiber frame built for climbing to a steel frame, wide tires and a panier built for Alaska. Although, I'm sure I there would have been multiple flats on the Trek on the first day due to road conditions.
We'll hope for, at least, better weather tomorrow; although the rain seems to be following us since it's sprinkling here now.
~ Lisa
It was raining and 40 degrees when we left the hotel this morning, and continued to rain for the first 50. Even after that there were showers, but not the steady, persistent preciptation of earlier. When we pulled into the motel tonight (Alaska 7 Motel), the sun was shining. According to the ride leaders (native Alaskans) the mountains create their own weather. It's no wonder you can't watch a weather forecast and understand what's going to happen.
On the bike, it means carrying everything. I was soaked by the time we got to lunch, and by that time my hands were numb. I learned that I should have brought my booties, even if they don't keep your feet dry. At least they would be warm. I learned that I should have put on my glove liners, for the same reason as the booties. And I learned that an extra pair of dry shorts and socks in the van would have been really useful. Oh well.
There's an Air Force base in Fairbanks. According to the local news, there are military training operations in progress this week involving all branches of the military. Only those that are or have been in the military probably understand what that really means, but seems to be very newsworthy and pretty awesome to those not from a military background. It was quite an impressive sight as we pulled into town yesterday to see the B-52's and F-15 fighters all sitting on the tarmack. Even more impressive was being able to see one of the B-52's take off as we went by. Wow!
Interestingly enough as we rode out today, there were no fighters nor B-52's at the base. The Alaska highway runs right along the base for many miles. The B-52's started coming in over our heads to land as we rode and you could here the fighters above all day. Gives you some perspective how small you really are.
We're in Delta Junction tonight. The ride leader told us during orientation that this motel would be the low point of the ride. The bar was set pretty low. But, here I am connected to free wireless internet, something I could not do in Anchorage. We had hot water, and the rooms are clean. It appears that there is only one room that isn't being used by the tour. Just a small local mom and pop place, that typically doesn't survive in our area.
We saw several moose today, and the Alaskan pipeline. No additional bear sightings.
The day lived up to the hype and was compounded by rain. We're off toward Denali tomorrow. We will be crossing two passes (Isabell and Thompson I think. I may have to corrrect myself on the next post), so I expect more climbing. Have I mentioned that I really miss my bike? The bikes provided by the tour are Cannondales and are well equipped for the Alaska roads. I underestimated, though, what it would mean to go from a lightweight carbon fiber frame built for climbing to a steel frame, wide tires and a panier built for Alaska. Although, I'm sure I there would have been multiple flats on the Trek on the first day due to road conditions.
We'll hope for, at least, better weather tomorrow; although the rain seems to be following us since it's sprinkling here now.
~ Lisa
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Fairbanks and Top Ten
We're in Fairbanks tonight and headed back south tomorrow to Delta Junction. Yesterday's ride had plenty of climbing. Today was fairly flat with rolling terrain, but rain at the end of the day. Temperatures are warmer than in Anchorage. Tomorrow's forecast does not sound good with more rain and my understanding is that it's the toughest day of the trip (more about that with the top ten list).
Hotels and food have been good. The group is good, a dynamic mix all with different stories and experiences. Some have never toured before. Others are very well travelled.
I rode the first two days alone. Today I rode with almost the whole group at different times.
We just returned from supper, and we have the luxury of laundry facilities. Unfortunately I didn't realize until after I had already washed some shorts and jerseys in the tub so now I'm drying in the dryer.
The scenery has changed a bit as we've come north and moved somewhat out of the tundra. This is more what I expected with lots of pine trees closer to the road, but everything continues to be green, green, green. We have a botanist in the group and we learned the other day that the flowers here are so big because of the moisture and minimal darkness. There were begonias at yesterday's hotel that had blossoms bigger than my hands.
The group has had sightings of various wildlife. The most exciting is a bear crossing the road on today's ride. I have no idea why the bear was crossing the road..... :-)
Other sightings have included bald eagles, swans and several moose. I was with George, Nancy and Paul today when we saw a cow and calf moose. The cow was not happy about our presence at all and proceeded to lead the calf back into the trees. George and Nancy are quite accomplished riders. All three are from Salt Lake City.
Here's tonight's Top Ten List --
1. Tom Bodet and Motel 6 have nothing on the Caribou Inn in GlennAllen.
The Caribou Inn will leave the heat on for you! As I understand, year round whether you need it or not with no temperature control. It took me all night to figure out what the running water sound was coming from the wall.
2. If you decide to open the window at the Caribou Inn in GlennAllen to help with temperature control because of number 1, expect the Alaskan state bird to come flying in (even with the screens).
3. The Alaskan state bird (also known as mosquitos in the "lower 48") are as big as they say.
I killed one after making the mistake of number 2, honestly it must have been PREHISTORIC it was so big!
4. When the tour operator says the roads "Go around the mountains," DO NOT BELIEVE HIM. He is telling a whopping fib!
5. When the ride leader (aka the tour operator in number 4) tells you it's all downhill after the next pass in 4 miles, DO NOT BELIEVE HIM.
Yes, he is telling a whopping fib! It is true that the roads are not going over the mountains as they do in the West, there are plenty of hills and plenty of climbing. Tomorrow's ride is suppose to be one of those character building rides with a couple of 6% climbs and a steady 1 - 2% grade back to Delta Junction. Boy, do I miss my bike!
6. Riders are like sheep.
If one rider stops because she thought she saw a moose, the rest of the riders will stop even if it turns out to be just a stump.
If the lead rider pulls off the road, a tailing rider will follow. Even if the lead rider was just looking for some "privacy."
7. When you see a pay phone mounted on a telephone pole, assume it's a good sign there's no cell service.
Yesterday we were 30 miles from anywhere, and here is a pay phone mounted on a utility pole. None of us had any wireless service.
8. It's cooler (or perhaps colder) in Alaska than in the midwest.
I did more clothes changes on Monday and Tuesday than you can imagine. The cold weather jacket I invested in this spring has more than paid for itself. Today, I carried all three jackets and used all three jackets (cold, warm and rain).
9. When you get to the top of a climb, DO NOT assume that the other side will be downhill.
Trust your legs, they will tell you whether you're going up or down. I struggled yesterday, assuming I was having to pedal downhill. Apparently not. It was actually a slow up! How can that be?
And finally...
10. Michelle, Natalie, Sophia (The Girls) and I are having a great time. Wish you were here!
~ Lisa
Hotels and food have been good. The group is good, a dynamic mix all with different stories and experiences. Some have never toured before. Others are very well travelled.
I rode the first two days alone. Today I rode with almost the whole group at different times.
We just returned from supper, and we have the luxury of laundry facilities. Unfortunately I didn't realize until after I had already washed some shorts and jerseys in the tub so now I'm drying in the dryer.
The scenery has changed a bit as we've come north and moved somewhat out of the tundra. This is more what I expected with lots of pine trees closer to the road, but everything continues to be green, green, green. We have a botanist in the group and we learned the other day that the flowers here are so big because of the moisture and minimal darkness. There were begonias at yesterday's hotel that had blossoms bigger than my hands.
The group has had sightings of various wildlife. The most exciting is a bear crossing the road on today's ride. I have no idea why the bear was crossing the road..... :-)
Other sightings have included bald eagles, swans and several moose. I was with George, Nancy and Paul today when we saw a cow and calf moose. The cow was not happy about our presence at all and proceeded to lead the calf back into the trees. George and Nancy are quite accomplished riders. All three are from Salt Lake City.
Here's tonight's Top Ten List --
1. Tom Bodet and Motel 6 have nothing on the Caribou Inn in GlennAllen.
The Caribou Inn will leave the heat on for you! As I understand, year round whether you need it or not with no temperature control. It took me all night to figure out what the running water sound was coming from the wall.
2. If you decide to open the window at the Caribou Inn in GlennAllen to help with temperature control because of number 1, expect the Alaskan state bird to come flying in (even with the screens).
3. The Alaskan state bird (also known as mosquitos in the "lower 48") are as big as they say.
I killed one after making the mistake of number 2, honestly it must have been PREHISTORIC it was so big!
4. When the tour operator says the roads "Go around the mountains," DO NOT BELIEVE HIM. He is telling a whopping fib!
5. When the ride leader (aka the tour operator in number 4) tells you it's all downhill after the next pass in 4 miles, DO NOT BELIEVE HIM.
Yes, he is telling a whopping fib! It is true that the roads are not going over the mountains as they do in the West, there are plenty of hills and plenty of climbing. Tomorrow's ride is suppose to be one of those character building rides with a couple of 6% climbs and a steady 1 - 2% grade back to Delta Junction. Boy, do I miss my bike!
6. Riders are like sheep.
If one rider stops because she thought she saw a moose, the rest of the riders will stop even if it turns out to be just a stump.
If the lead rider pulls off the road, a tailing rider will follow. Even if the lead rider was just looking for some "privacy."
7. When you see a pay phone mounted on a telephone pole, assume it's a good sign there's no cell service.
Yesterday we were 30 miles from anywhere, and here is a pay phone mounted on a utility pole. None of us had any wireless service.
8. It's cooler (or perhaps colder) in Alaska than in the midwest.
I did more clothes changes on Monday and Tuesday than you can imagine. The cold weather jacket I invested in this spring has more than paid for itself. Today, I carried all three jackets and used all three jackets (cold, warm and rain).
9. When you get to the top of a climb, DO NOT assume that the other side will be downhill.
Trust your legs, they will tell you whether you're going up or down. I struggled yesterday, assuming I was having to pedal downhill. Apparently not. It was actually a slow up! How can that be?
And finally...
10. Michelle, Natalie, Sophia (The Girls) and I are having a great time. Wish you were here!
~ Lisa
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Hellooooo from GlenAllen, Alaska
Yes, I made it, but wasn't able to post last night. We've also found that wireless service is a bit sketchy. Hopefully, Dale at least received the voice mail message that I left when I arrived.
The trip yesterday was better than expected. Everything was on time, which seems to be an accomplishment given all the rain the midwest has had and continues to have the way it sounds. I wound up with a great seat at the bulkhead Minneapolis to Anchorage. Consequently, I slept almost four hours of the 6 hour flight.
Of course, yesterday was the summer solstice. 19+ hours of daylight in Alaska yesterday! Amazing daylight 4 a.m. to 11:45 p.m.! After midnight, it gets darker but never dark.
I have to say the trip sort of wiped me out yesterday, so really didn't get to enjoy the sights in Anchorage as I had hoped. I walked around a bit after I arrived, but as soon as I ate lunch I was ready for a nap after getting up at 4 a.m. cdt.
The time difference is three hours behind Iowa. The west coast time zone has always given me trouble, and this one will be no different. Couple that with the, almost, endless daylight, I expect to be pretty tired by the end of the week and should be able to sleep on the flight back home. By the way, in case you're wondering, Alaska looses a whopping 40 seconds of daylight today. Yes, they do discuss these things here!
We met the tour at 7 a.m. this morning. We loaded and ate breakfast, then left to drive approximately 2 hours from Anchorage. There are 13 riders on the tour and 2 staff. It's a bit different operation than what I've ridden with before, something also observed by other riders here that have had the America by Bicycle cross country experience.
Alaska is big country, not too much unlike Wyoming but in some respects even more so. Here are some things I've noticed over the last two days:
1. Trees are not very big nor close to the road. What I've learned is that the permanent frost line is only inches below the surface of the ground and soil is very poor, consequently vegetation cannot grow very well.
2. There are no dead animals on the road. What I've learned is that Alaska doesn't have skunk or racoon, which is the most prevalent evidence in Iowa; and that most animal deaths (rabbits, squirrels, fox and moose) occur in the winter time because of the snow.
3. There don't seem to be many dogs in Alaska. In 70+ miles today, I only heard one dog and saw none.
4. There is nothing out here, which is why, I suppose, the trip is all inclusive. Even in Wyoming, there are a scattering of small, local diners and convenience stores that serve sandwiches. We saw two convenience stores today. We made no turns all day, and saw no intersections.
5. Campgrounds open on May 20. Is the snow gone?
6. Roads are actually fairly good. We road on wide shoulder all day, which has more weather damage than the road but it also is in fairly good condition all things considered.
7. There are ALOT of motor homes and RV's here. On the cross country trip I commented on all of the motorcycles in South Dakota. Recreational vehicles in Alaska far outnumber the motorcycles and probably are close to equal to the number of trucks and cars.
8. People here have airplanes like we have cars. I guess this goes back to the opening comment that this is big country. People use air transportation to travel and commute. What, you live on a lake? No, problem. There are more airplanes with pontoons than with wheels.
The scenery is beautiful. We had huge snowcapped mountains in sight the second half of the day. I have some good photos.
We're off to Tok tomorrow, another 70+. We finished today at 6:25. Very late by comparison to other trips. We probably didn't start riding until close to noon. There'll be a similar format tomorrow to take us out 20 miles before we begin to ride.
Will try to post again tomorrow. See you in Tok
~ Lisa
The trip yesterday was better than expected. Everything was on time, which seems to be an accomplishment given all the rain the midwest has had and continues to have the way it sounds. I wound up with a great seat at the bulkhead Minneapolis to Anchorage. Consequently, I slept almost four hours of the 6 hour flight.
Of course, yesterday was the summer solstice. 19+ hours of daylight in Alaska yesterday! Amazing daylight 4 a.m. to 11:45 p.m.! After midnight, it gets darker but never dark.
I have to say the trip sort of wiped me out yesterday, so really didn't get to enjoy the sights in Anchorage as I had hoped. I walked around a bit after I arrived, but as soon as I ate lunch I was ready for a nap after getting up at 4 a.m. cdt.
The time difference is three hours behind Iowa. The west coast time zone has always given me trouble, and this one will be no different. Couple that with the, almost, endless daylight, I expect to be pretty tired by the end of the week and should be able to sleep on the flight back home. By the way, in case you're wondering, Alaska looses a whopping 40 seconds of daylight today. Yes, they do discuss these things here!
We met the tour at 7 a.m. this morning. We loaded and ate breakfast, then left to drive approximately 2 hours from Anchorage. There are 13 riders on the tour and 2 staff. It's a bit different operation than what I've ridden with before, something also observed by other riders here that have had the America by Bicycle cross country experience.
Alaska is big country, not too much unlike Wyoming but in some respects even more so. Here are some things I've noticed over the last two days:
1. Trees are not very big nor close to the road. What I've learned is that the permanent frost line is only inches below the surface of the ground and soil is very poor, consequently vegetation cannot grow very well.
2. There are no dead animals on the road. What I've learned is that Alaska doesn't have skunk or racoon, which is the most prevalent evidence in Iowa; and that most animal deaths (rabbits, squirrels, fox and moose) occur in the winter time because of the snow.
3. There don't seem to be many dogs in Alaska. In 70+ miles today, I only heard one dog and saw none.
4. There is nothing out here, which is why, I suppose, the trip is all inclusive. Even in Wyoming, there are a scattering of small, local diners and convenience stores that serve sandwiches. We saw two convenience stores today. We made no turns all day, and saw no intersections.
5. Campgrounds open on May 20. Is the snow gone?
6. Roads are actually fairly good. We road on wide shoulder all day, which has more weather damage than the road but it also is in fairly good condition all things considered.
7. There are ALOT of motor homes and RV's here. On the cross country trip I commented on all of the motorcycles in South Dakota. Recreational vehicles in Alaska far outnumber the motorcycles and probably are close to equal to the number of trucks and cars.
8. People here have airplanes like we have cars. I guess this goes back to the opening comment that this is big country. People use air transportation to travel and commute. What, you live on a lake? No, problem. There are more airplanes with pontoons than with wheels.
The scenery is beautiful. We had huge snowcapped mountains in sight the second half of the day. I have some good photos.
We're off to Tok tomorrow, another 70+. We finished today at 6:25. Very late by comparison to other trips. We probably didn't start riding until close to noon. There'll be a similar format tomorrow to take us out 20 miles before we begin to ride.
Will try to post again tomorrow. See you in Tok
~ Lisa
Monday, June 15, 2009
Training Time is Running Out
It has been an interesting spring. I cannot remember having this much difficulty getting training rides in while getting ready for the cross country trips. Sure there was cold weather and a bit of snow, but not the endless rain and wind that we've had again this spring. BUT, as I tell everyone who asks, this year is nothing for rain compared to last year at this time!
It's Monday night and I'll try to get a few more rides in this week, perhaps another 75 miles if I'm lucky.
I re-read the tour information over the weekend to make myself feel better about not being as prepared as I would like. Quite honestly, I haven't even tracked the number of training miles this year. What's up with that?? When the weather turned nice in April, I got on the bike and started riding without any idea that in less than three months I'd be headed off to Alaska!
Training rides can be quite interesting (or one needs to make them interesting to break up the monotony).
At this time of year it's easy to measure the change in the landscape from last year. For instance, it's noticeable that two of our neighbors to the east are no longer with us. Very sad, but new families moving in. Last week I noticed that some one's grain bin (south of here) had started to collapse, presumably as they've begun to empty the grain. That same farmstead doesn't have nearly the number of cattle that it used to. Wonder why? The crops are starting to look great. Saw some corn over the weekend that was close to two feet tall (should easily make "knee high by the 4th of July"). Many things that one would not notice when speeding by in a vehicle.
Speaking of which, last week I had a first when a motorcycle rode up behind me south of Dike (going uphill) and proceeded to engage in a full conversation about what I was training for and that I would be welcome to ride with his bicycle group anytime!
I also learned something last week at the dentist, of all places. The dental hygienist shared that she sings the school fight song or does cheers while riding and climbing. I have not been able to get rid of that picture from my mind! It will keep me in good humor during the tough times next week.
I leave from Cedar Rapids on Saturday at 7 a.m. I change flights in Minneapolis, and then proceed to Anchorage from there. The flight time from Minneapolis to Anchorage is six hours. I'm not looking forward to that part, but will be in Anchorage by noon so will have time to see the sights there before connecting with the tour group on Sunday.
Get your maps out. Here are the overnight stops.
Saturday, 6/20 Anchorage
Sunday, 6/21 Glenallen
Monday, 6/22 Tok
Tuesday, 6/23 Fairbanks
Wednesday, 6/24 Delta Junction
Thursday, 6/25 Denali Highway
Friday, 6/26 Glenallen
Saturday, 6/27 Valdez
I hope for good weather. It was 55 today in Anchorage. I'll be taking the full range of biking attire, winter through summer. The piling has commenced so as not to forget anything.
I expect spectacular scenery, and look forward to sharing the adventure.
~Lisa
It's Monday night and I'll try to get a few more rides in this week, perhaps another 75 miles if I'm lucky.
I re-read the tour information over the weekend to make myself feel better about not being as prepared as I would like. Quite honestly, I haven't even tracked the number of training miles this year. What's up with that?? When the weather turned nice in April, I got on the bike and started riding without any idea that in less than three months I'd be headed off to Alaska!
Training rides can be quite interesting (or one needs to make them interesting to break up the monotony).
At this time of year it's easy to measure the change in the landscape from last year. For instance, it's noticeable that two of our neighbors to the east are no longer with us. Very sad, but new families moving in. Last week I noticed that some one's grain bin (south of here) had started to collapse, presumably as they've begun to empty the grain. That same farmstead doesn't have nearly the number of cattle that it used to. Wonder why? The crops are starting to look great. Saw some corn over the weekend that was close to two feet tall (should easily make "knee high by the 4th of July"). Many things that one would not notice when speeding by in a vehicle.
Speaking of which, last week I had a first when a motorcycle rode up behind me south of Dike (going uphill) and proceeded to engage in a full conversation about what I was training for and that I would be welcome to ride with his bicycle group anytime!
I also learned something last week at the dentist, of all places. The dental hygienist shared that she sings the school fight song or does cheers while riding and climbing. I have not been able to get rid of that picture from my mind! It will keep me in good humor during the tough times next week.
I leave from Cedar Rapids on Saturday at 7 a.m. I change flights in Minneapolis, and then proceed to Anchorage from there. The flight time from Minneapolis to Anchorage is six hours. I'm not looking forward to that part, but will be in Anchorage by noon so will have time to see the sights there before connecting with the tour group on Sunday.
Get your maps out. Here are the overnight stops.
Saturday, 6/20 Anchorage
Sunday, 6/21 Glenallen
Monday, 6/22 Tok
Tuesday, 6/23 Fairbanks
Wednesday, 6/24 Delta Junction
Thursday, 6/25 Denali Highway
Friday, 6/26 Glenallen
Saturday, 6/27 Valdez
I hope for good weather. It was 55 today in Anchorage. I'll be taking the full range of biking attire, winter through summer. The piling has commenced so as not to forget anything.
I expect spectacular scenery, and look forward to sharing the adventure.
~Lisa
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