Saturday, June 27, 2009

Catching Up -- Destination Tangle River

I haven't been able to connect the last two nights. It is Saturday (I think) and we have arrived in Valdez. I'll make three separate posts to catch up. So, I apologize to those of you who receive e-mail's of the posts because you're going to get rapid fire e-mail tonight but there's too much to put into one entry.



First of all to correct myself as I predicted I would need to, we climbed Isabell Pass on Thursday. Thompson Pass comes later.

After steady rain on Wednesday, we got up to fabulous sunshine on Thursday and had magnificent scenery all day. It was absolutely the best!


We left the Alaska 7 to head into Delta Junction for a great, well organized breakfast; and immediately ran upon two moose, a bull and a cow. They seemed very intimidated by the traffic. The ride leaders indicate this is usually because they are young. You could not have proven it by me. The bull looked huge! Fortunately, all traffic was very cautious and the moose were able to safely crossed the road in front of us.


After breakfast, we were off on a great day of cycling into Tangle River first on the Alaska Highway then the Denali Highway the last 20 miles. Tangle River turns out to be as close to the end of the earth as I think I've ever been.


I think I got some great photos on this day, and it started almost immediately with a great view of Mount Hess. Quite honestly, I don't think we lost sight of the mountains all day, whether they were snow covered, brush covered or just stone.


The first sag was at the Pipeline Crossover. This is a wide spot in the road where the Alaska Pipeline crosses under the highway. There was a wealth of information there regarding the pipeline and how it was built. As I understand it the pipeline is consistently full. There were 13 pumping stations built, but currently only 4 are in operation. What happened to that foreign oil independence thing? I vaguely remember this endeavor being very controversial in 1972, and most that you speak to remember the same thing.


We rode much of the day along or within view of the pipeline, and what I found extremely interesting is how accessible the pipeline is. At any given time, you could just walk right up to it if you chose to. Not sure what they do about security, but it would seem this would be somewhat of a risk. Interesting nonetheless to see how some of our fuel originates.


Everywhere you look you see wildflowers. The ditches, tundra and forests can just be thick with various varieties of flowers. Debbie, one of the ride leaders, is a second grade teacher in Anchorage and consistently puts her "second grade art skills" to work. She provided everyone handmade greeting cards with pressed Alaskan wildflowers that were beautiful.

Along with the morning's standard moose sighting, we had an interesting event on the road today. We came upon a single seat airplane sitting along side the road; engine running, pilot inside. It was on a downhill for me. I'm really not sure where he had come from as there was forest all around. Traffic was clear after I went by, and soon I could hear the engine speed up. I stopped and turned around. Sure enough, he was using the road as a runway for a take off (fortunately going uphill from me, but surely came close to buzzing two other riders who were not too far behind me). I did manage to get photos.

The lunch stop was along a river with rapids, as well as the next stop. It was a beautiful day. We followed the Delta River for a good portion of the day. I stopped to walk down to the water. Surprisingly, it wasn't nearly as cold as I expected. Although I'm not sure I would feel it was warm enough to raft as many do.

The crossing of Isabell Pass was pretty uneventful. Had we not known the mile marker, you wouldn't have known you had crossed it. There was a historic marker there, but I didn't stop because at about that time there were sprinkles and I did not want a repeat of yesterday.

Shortly after crossing the Pass, you come upon Summit Lake. This is a large lake dotted with small winter cabins, which seemed odd to me. This evidentally is a more popular winter location than summer. A large week-long snowmobiling event is held each winter that draws approximately 10,000 snowmobiles.

The last stop of the day was at Paxson where we picked up the Denali Highway to Tangle River. The area is so remote that Paxson receives mail twice a week (Tuesday and Thursday). It was a big day when we rode through -- mail and bike tour all on the same day.

There was a little boy who rode up on his bike while we were there, very curious as to what we were doing. He had his stuffed toy turtle "Steve" mounted to his handle bars. He wanted to know when we would be back? Told you it was big doings in Paxson on Thursday!

The Denali Highway is 135 miles of paved and unpaved road to Mount McKinley. It is not maintained in the winter time, so is not passable. And, is barely passable in the summer as it is generally, one continuous frost heave. Very difficult for biking. The area temperatures drop to 60 below in the winter, which could explain alot.

The Tangle River Inn is at mile 20 on the Highway. It was an especially interesting place. Very nice, very homey and very secluded. This was the stop advertised as no phone service, but had no television either. It was a very odd feeling being so remote and no access to any outside services.

It was incredibly cold when we arrived and the heat was on in the cabin, so you knew we were gaining altitude, and we should have known it was a sign of things to come.

This area is a popular destination for fishermen and hikers. The lodge had a restaurant where we had supper and breakfast the next morning. Halibut was on the menu for supper, and was very good!

The restaurant had an incredible view of the river with mountains as a backdrop. At one point, someone thought there was a bear at the river but upon further review by the group it was determined to be a really big dog. You get a little punchy after being on the road awhile.

There was also a camp of geoligists there. There were studying nickel. They had a small camp of, what we know as, small hoop buildings. This is their third summer there. They travel by helicopter to the various drill sites that they have, and caused quite a stir earlier in the week when they accidentally began drilling on federal land instead of the leased land they had procured. Their living conditions appeared pretty rustic.

There was also a camp of pipeline works there, in even more primitive accommodations. These are truly independent, hardy folks that live out here. But, the beauty of the surroundings probably explains their motivation.

This was probably the best day so far.

Tomorrow it's back to Glenallen and the Caribou Inn.
~ Lisa

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